Don’t ignore sprouted potatoes

For generations of Lahoris, the name Neela Gumbad (Blue Dome) referred to a bustling commercial center. The kind of place you visited to purchase a bicycle, repair a motor tire, or navigate a maze of auto parts shops.  Behind Anarkali Bazaar, the name itself felt almost metaphoric, as the physical blue dome was impossible to see from the main street. The location was swallowed whole by decades of unregulated commercial expansion, illegal encroachments, dangling electrical wires, and storefronts. One of Lahore’s most significant 17th-century heritage landmarks had been completely erased from the public eye. Now, a major initiative led by Chief Minister Maryam Nawaz under the government’s heritage restoration project is finally breathing new life into the centuries-old monument. The history of Neela Gumbad records back to 1673 during the reign of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The complex was constructed as the final resting place and shrine for the venerated Sufi saint Sheikh Abdul Razzaq (often referred to as Abdur Razzaq Makki).  The tomb earned its famous moniker from Central Asian-style blue glazed tiles that adorned its central dome. However, as Lahore expanded into a modern metropolis throughout the 20th century, the historic shrine fell victim to severe urbanisation. The area around the tomb transformed into the infamous Neela Gumbad Cycle Market. Bulky, multi-story cycle shops, workshops, and illegal extensions were constructed directly against the shrine’s perimeter walls. Over time, the once-spacious courtyard and surrounding greenery vanished. Therefore, reducing the ancient monument to a claustrophobic nook completely hidden by concrete, rusted signboards and traffic congestion. Visitors to the area could spend hours in the market without realizing that a 350-year-old Mughal-era tomb stood there behind the shops. The ongoing restoration effort is radically altering the landscape of the area. To restore the monument’s historical dignity, the provincial government initiated a massive clearance operation. Recognizing the economic impact on local merchants, millions of rupees in compensation checks were distributed to dozens of affected shopkeepers and property owners surrounding the shrine prior to the clearance. Heavy machinery was then brought in to demolish the encroaching structures, exposing the weathered brickwork and original arches of the Neela Gumbad complex for the first time in nearly half a century. The project goes beyond simply tearing down illegal shops. It represents a comprehensive attempt at placemaking. It reclaims public spaces for citizens while preserving historical identity. The vision for the site includes a multi-level subterranean parking facility designed to permanently solve the chronic traffic congestion along Mall Road and Anarkali. The space surrounding the shrine is being converted into an open-air public piazza with pedestrian walkways, seating, green spaces, and night lighting. This plan will allow sightings of the blue dome from the main road once again. To preserve the historic commercial identity without compromising the architecture, bicycle vendors are being provided organized spaces within new facilities nearby. Specialized conservationists are working to restore the crumbling brickwork, repair structural damage, and revive the signature blue tiles of the shrine’s dome. As heavy excavators continue clearing debris around the site, the historic silhouette of Neela Gumbad is once again visible. This ongoing revival project serves as a case for how South Asian megacities can reclaim their historic souls.